Some trips feel special even before you’ve truly left. Our two-day tour to the White Desert in Egypt was one of those. We relinquished all control, had no idea what to expect, but knew this would be different from everything we’d done before. For hours, we drove through the desolate Egyptian desert, further away from civilization, until the sand gave way to a fairy-tale landscape. White rock formations framed our campsite for the night, where we witnessed the most beautiful sunset as the campfire was lit. And as the silence grew louder, I realized: this is the kind of place you can’t explain, but must experience.
On our way to the Bahariya Oasis
We get up early because the driver is supposed to pick us up at seven o’clock for our two-day tour to the White Desert. When he hasn’t shown up after a few minutes, I feel stressed. Maybe it wasn’t the best idea to book a tour through Instagram after all. But my worries turn out to be unfounded, as ten minutes later a large white car pulls up and we can depart.
On the way, we stop at a gas station for a light breakfast, after which the long drive really begins. The four-hour drive to the Bahariya Oasis quickly turns into five. There, we exchange our car for a jeep and meet our guides, Mustafa and Alaa. They tell us that we won’t be having lunch here, but rather a half-hour further, and that the Black Desert is only on the agenda for tomorrow. The worst-case scenarios replay in my mind. Are we going to see everything that was promised? Did I perhaps buy a pig in a poke?
Bedouin lunch at Al Haiz
Once we arrive at the lunch spot, those thoughts vanish as quickly as they appeared. We are welcomed into a simple, traditional space: mud walls, a ceiling of wooden beams, and straw mats through which sunlight playfully filters. We take our places on low cushions around small tables, beside a narrow channel of water. Everything is basic, yet warm and inviting. The kind of place that naturally encourages a quieter demeanor.
A gigantic Bedouin meal appears before us: fresh bread, vegetables, a type of cheese with cucumber, fries, and all sorts of other delicacies. We do our utmost to eat everything, but eventually have to admit that it’s simply too much. While we eat, a kitten settles without hesitation on my lap, as if it’s the most natural thing in the world. The people here do everything with ease and a smile. They talk little, but you feel their care in every gesture: an extra piece of bread, a friendly nod, a gentle glance. That warmth makes us feel immediately welcomed and at ease.
After lunch, there’s still time for a refreshing dive in the Al Haiz spring. The warm water comes deep from the earth, from an ancient underground water layer, creating an impressive contrast with the surrounding desert. We don’t have much time, but we enjoy every minute. The children play in the current of the water, often found more underwater than above. Time and again, they let themselves be carried away, and we can’t escape it either. Then it’s time to get dressed again and move on. And that’s when the adventure really begins…
Searching for crystals
After our refreshing dive in the Al Haiz spring, we get back in the jeep and head towards the Aqaba region. Our first stop is a special place that lives up to its name: ‘Crystal’, named after the abundant crystal found in the rocks here. We can’t hold back and immediately climb the mountain, scrambling over the sparkling stones. At the top, a breathtaking view of the valley awaits us. In the distance, we see other jeeps racing through the desert like little dots. Breathtaking.
The children find one beautiful crystal after another and enthusiastically search for beautiful stones. Who would have thought that our teenagers would still be so crazy about this after all these years? This is anything but a tourist attraction with signposts and benches, but rather a beautiful piece of untouched, raw nature that we have never seen anywhere else. We take a moment to absorb the splendor of this place.
Racing down the dunes on sandboards
Our next destination lies between enormous sand dunes, perfect for a good dose of adrenaline: sandboarding! The kids have been looking forward to this for weeks! With our butts on the board, we race down the hill. Some runs go better than others, but Lucas is guaranteed to break the record. I also try to stand on the board, just like I did 15 years ago in Huacachina, Peru. To everyone’s surprise, especially the guides, I do surprisingly well.
Lucas and Marloes discover a spot that is perfectly situated, making it seem like they’re jumping into the abyss. Time and again, they leap into the depths, giggling and shouting with joy. It’s pure chaos; we run up and down the dunes, drenched in sweat, but we thoroughly enjoy it.
A brief stop at a desolate moon landscape
There is one last stop before we enter the White Desert. A little further on, an unusual rock formation can be found: the Moon Cave. This is the first place where we find two other jeeps with tourists. The Moon Cave is aptly named. The white, tall walls are rough, and the remarkable shape resembles an extraterrestrial landscape. However, twilight is approaching quickly, and it’s time to move on as we want to set up our camp before it gets dark.
Setting up the camp in the White Desert
Luckily it’s not far to drive to the White Desert, and what a view! An incredible place, unlike anything you’ll see anywhere else. The plain is scattered with bizarre rock formations, although these aren’t real rocks, but clumped sand that has taken on strange, whimsical shapes through wind and time.
We help our guides set up the big tent for a moment, but after that, they take care of the rest while we head out to explore. The children run from one sand dune to the other. It’s just like a gigantic playground! Marloes marks the location for the toilet in the sand because, yes, we’ll need to do that here in the wild as well.
Beautiful moments around the campfire at the White Desert
Slowly, the campfire is lit, and we watch the sun set, picturesque behind the rugged sand formations. I really can’t put into words how incredibly beautiful it was, and I even get a little emotional when I think back on it. These are truly the “pinch-me-now” moments. Those moments that touch your soul, and make me so grateful that I can and get to experience this with my family.
It is getting darker. We play Pictionary in the sand and watch the chicken being prepared on the BBQ. It seems to take an eternity before we can finally sit at the table, but the wait is definitely worth it: first a warm broth soup with pasta, then chicken with bread, a vegetable sauce, and rice. We seem to be like starving hyenas. When we are done, we gather the leftovers and place them a little further in the sand so that the desert animals can also benefit from our meal. It feels like a full circle moment where we also give something back to this beautiful place.
After dinner, we linger by the campfire for a long time, enjoying the silence of the desert and the countless stars above us. Fresh tea is served, and songs are sung. Suddenly, Alaa says he has seen a white fox. With our flashlights ready, we search for him in the dark sand, but unfortunately, he is nowhere to be found. This exciting search marks the end of our adventurous day, and we all dive into our sleeping bags.
Sunrise among impressive rock formations of the White Desert
The alarm goes off early. There are only a few reasons to get me out of bed at this hour, but a sunrise in a place like this… that is definitely one of them. Cedric stays in bed, but the kids and I get out of the tent in no time. The White Desert is deafeningly quiet and breathtakingly beautiful. We search for the perfect spot to watch the sun rise. The sky turns orange and gradually the landscape gains color. The children are having the time of their lives here, inventing one game after another.
We also try to see if we can slide down the sand between the rock formations with the boards, but the sand dunes are just not steep enough.
The chicken and the mushroom in the White Desert
The men are still asleep, so we decide to light the fire ourselves. It works: there is fire! As soon as Mustafa wakes up, the small fire turns into a large crackling campfire. He knows better than anyone how to make the wood burn well.
Afterward, our guides make coffee and warm bread. We also get honey and jam and enjoy a peaceful breakfast in the middle of the desert. Once the camp is cleaned up, we get back into the jeep and set course for our next destination.
Our journey takes us in search of the rocks known as “Chicken” and “Mushroom.” To get there, we drive for a long time through the vast, white desert – a beautiful, desolate landscape that feels almost magical.
The Black Desert: A desert of contrasts
We begin the long journey back, but there is one last stop on the agenda: the Black Desert and the mountain Jabal Al-Marsous. Here, there was once volcanic activity, and together with the sand blown in from the desert, it creates a stunning view: sand dunes with black accents that create an almost extraterrestrial atmosphere.
The children immediately spot the largest sand dune and run up the hill to then ‘swim’, roll, and run down. We will only stay here for a quarter of an hour, as the ride back to Giza is still long. It is time to say goodbye to Mustafa and the jeep. Our previous driver arrives quickly, and Alaa rides back with us.
We are not home yet…
There is a misunderstanding about the lunch. I had mistakenly understood that it would be included, and we gave our last cash as a tip to the guides. With barely a few hundred Egyptian pounds on us, we try to see if we can find a restaurant, but the prices are too high and they hardly speak English here. Everyone is getting a bit hangry, but Cedric quickly decides: we’ll just go back and eat at our hotel.
It’s an unyieldingly long road back. Along the way, we see a truck that has lost its entire load of tomatoes on the road. I’m taking a nap. And our driver has a hundred friends on the line to tell about his adventures. Five hours later, we finally arrive at our beautiful hotel in Giza.
A warm bath and delicious food await us. The rest of the evening provides the necessary relaxation: an intense game of Uno No Mercy, followed by other games like One Does the Move, One Does the Sound and a round of lip-reading. There’s plenty of laughter, and let’s be honest: we really needed that after this long, intensive travel day.
Practical Information
We chose a two-day tour to the White Desert. You can also extend this to three, four, or even six days. During these extra days, you will venture further into the desert to the Siwa Oasis and El-Fayoum.
You can find and compare various tours through GetYourGuide. We chose a small-scale, local travel organization: White Desert Adventures. They work with local guides from Bahariya, the jeeps are in excellent condition, and they ensure an unforgettable experience.
Equip yourself with swim gear, towels, an outfit for the next day, a jacket, and enough Egyptian pounds to have lunch somewhere. The organization provides all camping equipment, meals, and a permit.
We really enjoyed an unforgettable experience and definitely recommend this tour for your next vacation in Egypt.
Also read: What to do in Cairo with kids?
Do you have any questions or comments? Feel free to send me a message.
Thank you for sharing!
I did Morocco last year with the kids.
it was worth it